Why so many “deals” aren’t deals at all

Retailers do not need to cut a price to advertise a cut. They only need a higher number to cross out. Two independent studies measured how often that happens:

  • WalletHub’s analysis of Black Friday offers found that 36% of items showed no savings at all compared with their prices in the weeks before the sale (October 27 to November 17 in the study window), while the genuine deals averaged about 24% off.
  • Which?, the UK consumer group, tracked 175 home, tech and health products at eight major retailers for a full year around the 2024 sale. It found 83% were the same price or cheaper at least once outside the four-week Black Friday period — and none of the deals were at their lowest price only on Black Friday.

The Which? data is from UK retailers, so it is a warning about how “was” prices work rather than a US statistic. But the mechanism is identical on both sides of the Atlantic: the percentage-off badge tells you how a seller wants the deal to look. It does not tell you whether the price is low.

There is also a legal line here, and retailers keep crossing it. The US Federal Trade Commission’s pricing guides (16 CFR 233.1) say a former price should be one the item was “openly and actively offered for sale, for a reasonably substantial period of time” — and that if it wasn’t, the advertised bargain is “a false one.” In the EU, the rule is stricter and simpler: since 2022, the Omnibus Directive requires the crossed-out price to be the lowest price the shop charged in the previous 30 days. Class-action history shows the stakes: J.C. Penney settled false-reference-pricing claims for about $50 million and Kohl’s for about $6.15 million, both in 2015, after allegations that advertised “original” prices were prices the items were rarely, if ever, sold at.

Check 1: Ignore the was-price, find the real price

The single most useful habit is also the simplest: never judge a deal by the crossed-out number. Judge it by what the item actually sold for in the last 30 to 90 days. Free price-history tools do this in seconds:

  • Amazon: CamelCamelCamel or Keepa show the full price history of any Amazon listing, including third-party sellers.
  • Everywhere else: Google Shopping price history, Honey (now part of PayPal) droplists, and retailer-specific trackers cover most major stores.
  • No tool for that store? Search the product name plus “price” and check dated results, or simply screenshot the price today and compare again on Black Friday.

The rule of thumb: if the sale price is not below the price the item sold at for most of the last month, there is no deal — whatever the badge says.

Check 2: Match the exact model number

Black Friday has a long tradition of derivative models: a TV, laptop or appliance that looks identical to the well-reviewed model but carries a slightly different model number, a smaller panel, less memory, or fewer ports — made specifically for the sale. Comparison sites and price-history tools cannot save you here, because the derivative model has no history to check.

  • Copy the exact model number from the sale listing and search it separately. If almost no reviews exist and the price history is blank, you may be looking at a sale-only variant.
  • Compare the spec sheet line by line against the model you researched — screen type, RAM, storage, ports, warranty length. One downgraded component can erase the entire “saving.”
  • Be especially careful with TVs and laptops, where Black Friday variants are most common.

Check 3: Watch for the pre-sale price climb

One of the oldest tricks is raising the price in October so November’s “discount” merely returns it to normal. This is exactly why timing matters: today, October 28, is roughly 30 days before Black Friday — the perfect moment to start tracking.

  • For anything you plan to buy, note today’s price (a screenshot or a price alert) and check it again on Black Friday week. A “40% off” badge means nothing if the price was 40% lower a month ago.
  • Price-history charts make the climb visible: a flat line that jumps two to four weeks before the sale, then “falls” back to the old level, is the signature of an inflated deal.
  • This works in reverse too — if the price has been genuinely falling for months, Black Friday may just continue the trend rather than beat it.

Check 4: Compare across retailers, same week

A deal that only exists at one store deserves suspicion; a deal every store is running is usually the real market price for that week. Before you buy:

  • Search the exact model at two or three competing retailers. If one store’s “deal” matches another store’s everyday price, it isn’t a deal.
  • Check the manufacturer’s own store too — brands sometimes undercut their retailers during Black Friday week.
  • Remember shipping, membership and return costs: a $20 cheaper price with $15 shipping and no free returns is not cheaper.

Check 5: Run the true discount math

Percentages are easy to fudge and hard to feel. Work out the real numbers: true discount = (recent selling price − sale price) ÷ recent selling price. Two traps hide in the arithmetic:

  • Inflated reference price: a TV “was $1,999, now $1,299” looks like 35% off — but if it actually sold at $1,399 for most of October, the true discount is just 7%.
  • Stacked conditions: “up to 50% off” usually means one doorbuster at 50% and everything else at 10%. The headline rate is the maximum, not the typical saving. WalletHub’s finding that genuine deals average about 24% off is a good anchor: claims far above 40% deserve a second look at the reference price.

Our free Black Friday deal checker does this arithmetic for you: enter the was-price and the sale price, and it shows the true discount, flags inflated reference prices, and compares the result against 2026 category benchmarks.

Worked example: the $1,299 TV

A TV badged “35% off” on Black Friday

  • Advertised: was $1,999, now $1,299 (35% off)
  • Price history: sold at $1,399 for most of October, briefly $1,499 in early November
  • True discount vs. the price it actually sold at: ($1,399 − $1,299) ÷ $1,399 = 7%
  • Same TV at a rival retailer’s everyday price: $1,349
  • Verdict: a real but small saving — about $50 against the market, not $700 against the badge. Worth buying if you wanted this exact model anyway; not a reason to rush, and not a reason to upgrade to a bigger set.
The same logic applies in reverse: a modest-looking 15% discount against a genuine recent selling price is a better deal than a spectacular 60% discount against a price the item never sold at.

Check 6: Read the fine print before the price

Some real discounts come with strings that quietly eat them:

  • Return windows: several retailers shorten return periods for Black Friday purchases, or charge restocking fees on electronics. A deal you can’t return is a different deal.
  • Coupons that don’t stack: “extra 20% off with code” often excludes sale items, or applies only to the already-discounted price rather than the original.
  • Rebate and gift-card traps: a “$200 off” that arrives as a store gift card is not $200 off — it’s $200 you must spend at that store later.
  • Warranty changes: refurbished, open-box or “Black Friday exclusive” units sometimes carry shorter warranties. Check before checkout, not after delivery.

Check 7: If it looks too good, it’s probably a scam

Black Friday is also peak season for fake stores. The FTC has repeatedly warned that online shopping scams surge around the holidays, with social-media ads and lookalike sites pushing prices no legitimate retailer can match. Red flags:

  • A price far below every other retailer for a current, in-demand item.
  • A store you’ve never heard of, with no physical address, no phone number, and reviews only on its own site.
  • Payment by wire transfer, gift cards, or cryptocurrency — legitimate stores don’t ask for these.
  • Countdown timers and “only 2 left” badges on every single product. Real scarcity is specific; manufactured urgency is universal.

When in doubt, buy from the retailer you know, pay by credit card (which carries chargeback protection), and treat any deal that only exists in a social-media ad as guilty until proven innocent.

What a real Black Friday deal looks like in 2026

Not everything is a mirage. Adobe Analytics forecasts $275.1 billion in US online holiday spending for November–December 2026 (up 6.7%), with Cyber Week alone at $47.5 billion — and it expects genuinely deep discounts in specific categories. Use these as benchmarks for what “good” means:

When to buyBest categoriesWhat “good” looks like
Black Friday (Nov 27)TVs, toys, apparel, appliances, furniture20–30% off the genuine recent selling price
Cyber Monday (Nov 30)Electronics and computersDiscounts peaking around 30% — the deepest of the season
All seasonOlder models being cleared outOften the biggest real savings, but check the model number (Check 2)

The practical strategy: make your list now, track prices from today, and buy an item the moment it hits a verified low — don’t wait for a specific day. If a TV you tracked is genuinely 25% below its October price on Black Friday, buy it; waiting until Cyber Monday risks stock running out for a few extra percent. Conversely, if nothing on your list has moved by Black Friday, Cyber Monday’s electronics discounts are your second window — and January clearance may beat both.

Check your deal in 30 seconds

Found a Black Friday price you’re unsure about? Don’t trust the badge — run the numbers. Our free Black Friday deal checker shows the true discount, spots inflated reference prices, and compares your deal against 2026 category benchmarks.

Open the Black Friday deal checker →

For the full seasonal picture — sale dates, what’s worth waiting for, and our matching tools — see our Black Friday 2026 hub.

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell if a Black Friday deal is real?

Compare the sale price with what the item actually sold for before the sale, not with the crossed-out was-price. Check a price-history tool (CamelCamelCamel or Keepa for Amazon, Google Shopping or Honey elsewhere), match the exact model number, and confirm the discount against the price the item sold at for most of the last 30–90 days. If the sale price isn’t below that recent selling price, the deal is mostly marketing.

Are most Black Friday deals fake?

Not fake, but often not the year’s best price. WalletHub’s analysis of Black Friday offers found 36% showed no savings at all versus prices in the weeks before the sale, with genuine deals averaging about 24% off. UK consumer group Which? found 83% of Black Friday deals it tracked were the same price or cheaper at another time of year. Real deals exist — they just aren’t the majority of what’s badged as a deal.

What is the was-price trick?

The discount percentage is calculated from a crossed-out reference price that the item may rarely or never have sold at. Under the FTC’s pricing guides (16 CFR 233.1), a former price should be one the item was openly offered at for a reasonably substantial period. If a retailer inflates the reference price just to advertise a big cut, the guides call the bargain a false one. In the EU, the Omnibus Directive requires the crossed-out price to be the lowest price charged in the previous 30 days.

What is a good Black Friday discount?

Measured against the price the item actually sold at before the sale, a genuine Black Friday deal is typically 20–30% off. Adobe Analytics expects discounts to peak around 30% on Cyber Monday 2026, with the deepest markdowns on electronics and computers, and Black Friday offering the best deals on TVs, toys, apparel, appliances and furniture. Anything far above 40% deserves a second look at the reference price.

Should I buy on Black Friday or wait for Cyber Monday?

It depends on the category. Adobe’s 2026 forecast expects Black Friday to offer the best deals on TVs, toys, apparel, appliances and furniture, while Cyber Monday should have the deepest overall discounts (peaking around 30%), led by electronics and computers. If the item you want is already at a verified low on Black Friday, buy it — waiting risks stock running out for a few extra percent.